Hello All,

Ok, now after going over the video I have found some more details that will give us more information...

For example, ALL the Brushes have adjustment settings to change their angles of Interaction with Commutator, by running within a slot, cut on the outer housing.

By adjusting the Brushes, we can:
1_ Have the Motoring side to either accelerate or reduce speed.
2- While on the Generator side we can adjust the Induction Output to increase or decrease.

Now let's see images:


On image above, we have a view of Brushes B and C, which are the lower ones that are closer to each other's. (I will get below the Front Brushes View again)
Now, on this image is a bit more of info...
Notice the MINUS SIGN (Negative) marking on the Bakelite Block?...as well as on the yellow masking tape?
Then notice that Brush C does not have any connecting nuts, just the tightening nut...so, it could be connected through an inner jump to Brush B, and by doing this we extend the Negative Input and able to regulate the Right-Side Field on Armature.




And on above image, we can see a Positive Sign written on Bakelite block on Brush A (I trust more these writings than the ones just written on a piece of yellow masking tape) as we can also see it on yellow tape.
As this Brush also have the sliding-adjusting cut slot.




On above image we see Brush D...and this image ALSO have a PLUS SIGN (+) and a Letter "G"...

This Brush D also have an Adjustable sliding cut slot.

On the lower side of image we can see also Brush C, as all the room it have to slide it more to the right (looking at Dynamo from the front, like shown on image below)


The above image is all Four Brushes (Front View)...the Rear View would be on the drive shaft Pulley goes...

Ok, after knowing all this "new info" that I have provided on this post...now I can tell you I was correct on my previous post, where I gave you all possibilities...

But definitively, the Motor Brushes are A & B...exactly the side where that gap between Stators S1 - S4 have been forced.

Now, when adding negative on B as Positive on A, we generate A Magnetic Pole (ONE) in between these two brushes ANGLE.


And in order for Motor to spin CCW the Magnetic Field on Stator S4 MUST BE of the SAME POLARITY generated between A-B Angle, so, it can make a REPULSION.
while S1 MUST BE OF OPPOSITE POLARITY, to generate an ATTRACTION.

Motor can also run CW if S4 Field Polarization is OPPOSITE, as S1 is "pushing" (Assisting Rotation) by being of the SAME POLARITY as Armature Field Pole between Brushes A-B.

Tomorrow I will make a Graphic CAD to show these two possibilities (CW & CCW) on Polarization of Fields...

However, must here know that the simplest way to change rotation sense...is by switching either Brush input polarity, or on the two Stators S1 and S4...However, we need to know which rotation will benefit more the Generator Output.

Regards

Ufopolitics

@rakarskiy 

I have moved ALL Posts to your Generator Topic, as I have left the one about the Lockridge Device, BUT, I removed the last part of post, where you kept on repeating that closed grooves do not induced emf.
Now, we can keep that discussion there...or kill it.

I, particularly, do NOT have the time now to keep arguing about it...as I have already expressed my opinion, and I believe it is the same opinion as @citfta has.

Ufopolitics

Hello All,

Ok, like I have written yesterday, here are the Two Possibilities of Motor Rotation (CCW & CW), without changing the previous Brushes Electrical Connections, but just the Stators terminals.



And here please note we are leaving Brush A (+), and Brush B (-) like I have written on previous post.
Angle formed by these two brushes is where the North Pole is on Armature (I am just referencing it as North=Blue for explanations, but it also could be South=Red, then Stators would be opposite polarity than shown, still same rotation CCW)...

A Note here: All these North & South concepts are relative, as it depends on the way we arrange them to obtain same results.

So, the Stator S4 being NORTH, this will cause Armature to spin CCW by REPULSION, as also by S1 being SOUTH it will assist by ATTRACTING Armature North Pole.
I am also showing Bisector to Armature Angle with the center Blue Line with arrow. And this Bisector means the CENTER ALIGNMENT that Armature is "seeking" to ALIGN with the Center of S1, or SOUTH Pole Stator.
And this is the way Brushed Motors work based on my Method to Teach them. This Armature Pole Configuration will NEVER move from where it is at...just ALL COILS will keep rotating along with the steel mass of the Armature...So, Bisector line will never move from its positioning, unless we move brushes and Modify Interaction Angle.

On the other side (180º) of this Armature North Projecting Angle is going to be a WIDER SOUTH POLE, and as you can notice, it involves more coils then, more resistance, therefore, this Field Pole is weaker than North Blue Angle-Pole. Which is great (my opinion) because the Armature will also get induced ON THAT SIDE by its rotation around Stators S2 & S3...

Now, depending on the Magnetic Polarization of Stators S2 & S3 (Generator side) they will "Assist to Rotation" or "Oppose to Rotation"...once we connect a Load (Lamps)...

For example, if Stator S3 -once loaded- would become with a more Tendency to a South Pole...it will OPPOSE Rotation R, because the Red Bisector Angle is PASSED below Stator Bisector Angle (shown at stator center with a dotted black line).
However, IF we also make Stator S2 South, then the Magnetic Bisector will be located exactly between BOTH Stators S2 & S3, then they will ASSIST on Rotation CCW. 
BUT the above option, BOTH Stators (S2 & S3) being South, will weaken the Induction Force on Armature, simply because there would not be strong lines of force formed between both stators.

The other option would be that S3 turns North (moving its Bisector Angle right in between both North Stators S4 & S3, as we leave S2 as South, moving South Stators Bisector in between S1 & S2...It will also help on the Rotation.
Then I believe the above option is the best scenario for Generators Stators S2 & S3.



On above image we have the Motor spinning CW, and as you can notice, the Brushes are being fed exactly the same way that on previous image.

Only thing I have done is to REVERSE the Stators Electrical Connections. So, now S4 is Red=South while S1 is Blue=North...
And this different Magnetic Polarization will cause Armature to rotate CW...Since North Bisector would be seeking and alignment -BY ATTRACTION- with center of S4 South, while being REPULSED (Assisted) by S1 being North now....

Now, on the Generator Stators analysis for this Rotation, I believe the best assisting option would be for S2 becoming North and S3 South.

This type of Development, requires that we FIRST, start on the Motor side...getting it running in optimal conditions, with just the two stators S1 & S4 ON...in series with brushes...then see what we read on other side brushes and Stators...their Magnetic Orientation, etc. etc...and according to that, then we leave it as is, or reverse terminals on generator side stators, watching that motor rotation does not decay by our changes, but instead it increases in speed and torque.

Regards

Ufopolitics

Hello All,

Ok, so as I previously posted before, relating the best options for Stators S2 & S3 for Motor Assistance on the two Rotation Directions (CCW & CW):

QuoteThe other option would be that S3 turns North (moving its Bisector Angle right in between both North Stators S4 & S3, as we leave S2 as South, moving South Stators Bisector in between S1 & S2...It will also help on the Rotation.
Then I believe the above option is the best scenario for Generators Stators S2 & S3.

And...

Quoteon the Generator Stators analysis for this CW Rotation, I believe the best assisting option -for Motor Rotation- would be for S2 becoming North and S3 South.

Regards

Ufopolitics

Hello to All,

Ok, so this post is to inform you that I already have a way to make this machine to run as the original Lockridge Device ran...

Forget -for now- about the Capacitor and the Inductor...we first need to run the Motor and then measure the Generator Output plus Under LOAD...with around 300 Watts Lamps.

In order to make the proper brushes adjustments.


NOW, there are two types of these old automotive dynamos...one with "open case" an opening on frame housing where brushes are set>>NOT GOOD for our purpose.

Other one with ALL CLOSED STEEL CASING/HOUSING...and this one is the one we need!!...so we can make the adjustment slots for brushes.>>Good for this!!


Second, there were TWO Types of Armatures, related to their winding's configuration...and I will show images of the difference tomorrow or whenever I get a chance...

But you can look at the one (Armature) on Bedini's video...it has a Thick-heavy & coarse single wire wound that it "jumps" every other commutator bar...

While other Armature have these wires connected side by side in ALL Commutator Elements, not jumping.

Remember these armatures were wound with finer wire...as Stators were heavier.

Nevertheless, lastly, We can wind our own specific Armature, which meets the spec's that we need here...

Point is that brushes were thin out with a specific purpose...and that was basically on the Generator side, to distinguish between Generator Windings (coarse) and Motor windings.

And yes, we can have DUAL windings on the same Armature, one winding for motor (fine wire) while a very coarse wire for the Induced Generating wire...

Regards everyone!!

Ufopolitics