Reply to message #603


@ Ufopolitics,

Your Stage 1 description is sound, logical, and mechanically correct. 👍

I will walk through it briefly and confirm each critical point, plus add a few small professional notes to help you avoid trouble later.
Validation of Stage 1 (Raw Copper Cylinder Prep)
✔ Cylinder Length Strategy

• Cutting longer than final (82 mm vs 78 mm) is exactly the right approach.
• Leaving material for final facing after all marking = best practice.
• This avoids edge deformation and ensures square, parallel faces at the end.

✅ Approved.
✔ Interior Surface Preparation (Critical)

• Smoothing the interior first, before any segmentation marking, is essential.
• Doing this on the lathe with a fine internal tool is correct.
• This ensures:
  
  • Uniform brush contact later
  • No stress risers at segment cuts
  • Accurate angular transfer

✅ This step must come first — you are doing it right.
✔ Marking Segment Division Lines (Axial / Longitudinal)

• Marking all 32 segment division lines:
  
  • From end to end
  • On the interior surface
  • Parallel to the cylinder axis

This is the only correct way for your design, since:

• Brushes ride on the ID
• Final cuts will be made from the inside

✅ Correct and well thought out.
✔ Border Trimming After Marking

• Trimming the ends to exactly 78 mm after marking is correct.
• This preserves reference integrity of the axial lines.

✅ Correct sequencing.
✔ Radial / Axial Step Marking (Red & Green Lines)
Your interpretation is spot-on:

• Red lines = tab bend lines
• Green line = future separation between C1 and C2
• All marks at exactly 13 mm spacing

Important and correct detail:

• You are only marking these lines now
• NO cutting yet

This ensures:

• Tabs stay mechanically locked during segmentation
• Zero loss of angular alignment between C1 and C2

✅ This is the correct and safest method.
Small Professional Suggestions (Optional but Recommended)

• Use layout dye (Dykem) on the interior before marking
  → Much higher contrast and accuracy than bare copper.
• Scribe lightly, not deep
  → Final segmentation happens later; these are reference marks only.
• Index the first segment to a physical reference
  
  • Chuck jaw
  • Faceplate mark
  • Or lathe index pin
    This prevents cumulative angular error.
• When cutting later with the jigsaw:
  
  • Use very fine metal blade
  • Cut radially outward, slow feed
  • Deburr immediately after each cut
  • Conclusion

✔ Stage 1 is mechanically correct
✔ Sequencing is optimal
✔ Risk of segment misalignment is minimized
✔ Your approach avoids the classic "loose segment nightmare"
You are doing this the way a precision motor or commutator shop would do it.

Regards,  Alex

Thanks @kampen !!

Hello All,

Ok, so Step 2 of this Build is just to cut the Upper and Lower Tabs of the Cylinder that contains Commutator 1 & 2.

Again, CUT ONLY UPPER, (BELONGING TO C1) AND LOWER (BELONGING TO C2) TABS (DO NOT CUT BEYOND TAB´S MARKING´S !!!), as shown on image below:


On ALL these Steps Images I am showing a TOP FINISHED COMMUTATOR (Not including the passing bolts nor the polycarbonate insulation Plate-Ring.)

If you all notice, previously on Step 1, I already cut cylinder exactly to 78 mm AFTER FINE CUTTING THE INTERIOR.

Once you cut tabs you CAN NOT trim it to 78 on a Lathe!!, If you do, you are risking for lathe blade to get stuck in between cuts and damage the whole thing!!

As I have already marked all segment lines INSIDE & OUT (outside markings not shown on image not to populate it much and create confusion)

Remember copper is very soft material.

STEP 3 would be to BEND ALL THESE ALREADY CUT TABS AT 90 DEGREES:


Now, bending ALL TABS 90º AT ONCE FROM STRAIGHT is a very CHALLENGING Operation!

So, I recommend first to bend one by one AT A CLOSE ANGLE, BUT NOT THE 90º, say 45º.

Then using a VISE-PRESS with a  FLAT STEEL PLATE (SIZE OF TABS DIAMETER OR BIGGER) to bent them all (Upper and Lower Tabs) together at 90º...SLOWLY!!...MAY USE THE HELP FROM A FLAT CHISEL WITH ROUNDED BORDERS To just TAP EACH ONE WHILE BEING PRESSED.

IMPORTANT: AT THIS STAGE 3 YOU DO NOT:

• You do NOT Drill Holes on Tabs for future connecting bolts
• You do NOT Lathe-Cut this piece AT ALL, like for trying to cut align all tabs.
• You do NOT File-Trim the Tabs (like rounding sharp edges, etc)

Regards

Ufopolitics