Hello All,

Yesterday I was answering to Member Ronee (Ron) the following questions:

1- Is it BBM or MBB?

2- How long is it OFF and how long it is ON?

My answer was somehow wrong, or not clear enough...

Yes, I would like to have BBM, but that would be with another commutator with 36 elements...BUT, NOT on the Setup I am showing now!!

Now I have Make Before Brake (MBB) on the TRANSITION POINTS, when the Brush moves from One Sequential Group to the next Group.

Please see image below:


And on this Diagram I am showing the Brush transitioning points 1 & 2...

1- On Transition Point 1, Brush keeps ON Both Primaries N & S, meaning on this Point, Magnetic Fields on BOTH Primaries are FULLY RETRACTED, all the way to Coil N(1) and Coil S(5).

2- On Transition Point 2, is also the same situation as Point 1, where ONLY N(1) & S(5) are ON, meaning Field is FULLY RETRACTED to these two coils.

That is why (on diagram above) I have the connections to BOTH Coils N(1) & S(5) in thicker/solid lines, while ALL the rest connection lines, are dotted and finer connections (meaning OFF).

Therefore, on BOTH Points 1 & 2, before turning OFF previous Coil behind, it connects to the following Coil, meaning, it is an MBB (Make Before Brake) Transition Type.



1- On Transition Point 1, after brush disconnects from S(5) commutator contact, the N Group will stay ON for the Sequence 1-2-3-[4-4]-3-2-1 ([4-4] = Sine Peak for N) for the travel of Blue Arrow, or for 180º...While the S Group would be OFF for same period of time of 180º shown by Red arrow.

2- On Transition Point 2, after brush disconnects from N(1) commutator contact, the S Group would be ON for the sequence 5-6-7-[8-8]-7-6-5 (where [8-8] = Sine Peak for S)
While the N Group would be OFF for 180º (blue arrow)

Now, if We have a 36 Commutator elements or segments, then, it could be a BBM Transition. As I would have double (2) contacts for each connection plus four for the Peak, and other two above and two below for an idle time where ALL Groups would be OFF when brush pass by.

With a 32 Comm. contacts, it would be MBB ONLY, because there cannot be a four segments/contacts OFF or at idle, but the same that we have with 16 segments, except, we will be doubling contacts.

But, I also want to test a bigger setup, with Two Sequential Groups of Eight Coils...

Now I am testing an MBB set, and if it works fine after Testing, then I would stay on this method for next build.

However, the 36 Segments Commutator is more "flexible" than 32, it can be converted to BOTH Methods, MBB or BBM where with 32 we cannot do that.

So, for next Rotary Switch I will be making it with a 36 segments commutator.

However, all these issues related to the Control Driver plus Connections type for MBB or BBM, I consider them as less priority than actually building a model that performs as we expect, based on the displacement of the Two Fields along secondaries.

And so far we are seeing positive results with this small setup...and it is NOT FULLY finished yet...

I already clean up the bench, and ready for winding next four coils...

Then, we will see how it works out.

Regards

Ufopolitics

On my future tests I will be using -In Line Meters- at loads connection, to measure Amperage, not the Clamp Type.

Clamp type tools, whether the very expensive Tektronix Amp Probes for the Scope or the handheld Amp Clamps, both can give you false readings, as it is based on picking up the Magnetic

Field around conductor within clamp, and that can be altered by a larger Magnetic Field presence, which is our case on this setup.

And of course, during testing we can always insert our Amp Clamps, as far away from Generator as possible, to compare readings with the -in line- meters.

I have to do a full cleanup on my four Extech meters, basically, taking them apart and cleaning the Rotary Select Switch contacts...that is all, and getting four new 9V batteries to be ready

for next FULL Test.

I also have the In-Out Line Digital Meters, that gives you all parameters, that could be added to the circuit as well.


What I am looking for, on this full test, besides Output being larger than Input, is to achieve for the whole Exciter System to become "Self-Maintained".

Meaning that just by starting the Rotary Switch or Controller-Driver, it starts to Generate Energy on the Output.

And this could be done in two ways...

1- Is adding Two Smaller Coils on each Primary Coil, and use the Induced Energy to power the opposite Group, or add them both coils in series and feed Both Groups, passing through a

Rectifier Bridge plus a Cap.

2- What would be the "ideal set", is that when a Sequential Group is OFF and the other Group is "Pumping" the Field for the 180º, that it would Induce the Group that is OFF...

Of course, I have to test if this could be possible. And that is to have one group OFF while running the other Group and reading the Induction spec´s on power generated at the OFF Group.


At this point I have been just "theorizing" about both possibilities for a while, ever since I started this new setup...but, once that I have a Full Setup, it will let me know in real testing where to go from there.

And this is not just a "fantasy" that I am dreaming of...as it happens in EVERY Generator out there, whether a Brushed or Brushless type, it does exactly that...or "Recharge" in every cycle the Inducing or exciter fields.

Have you ever seen a Generator required to be attached to a Battery to start from zero?

Absolutely not, and that is because its Exciter System is self-feed or Self Maintained...so, all you have to do, is to start rotating its shaft...

For example: On this setup, if we keep Coils N(1) + S(5) enclosed within an Electrolytic Capacitor for each (like I have shown before) or an LC Tank Circuit...then, it would not affect the

Performance of the System if they are ON at all times, this would not interfere with the approaching field from opposite direction group.

All we need to do, is to get that Positive from BOTH E-Caps and connect it to Brush...of course, we have to have points above 1 or 2 tested first.

If those two caps readings, increase during operation...then we can achieve it easily.

That is the main test that I am pursuing to make, before checking if OU or not...

This will finally make this System a Self-runner...like Figuera wrote back in 1908..."then we disconnect the external battery, and the Generator will keep running without it"...

At this point in time, with all the development in electronics components that we have now...we do not need even a Battery...just a Cap... or a Super-Cap, that will keep energy stored and

increase as we start Generator Exciter System to "pump both Fields"...


Regards


Ufopolitics

Ok, here is the final video of adding secondaries...this time two end coils at each side of generator...

With same setup, Half Exciter System only.




These Two Coils are wound with 23 gauge wire, each have a resistance of 13.5 Ohms, and according to calculator online, is about 665 ft of wire length, as the two in series, add up to 27 ohms...therefore, the amperage is going to be pretty low...

Still, the main point here, is to prove that we can collect as well from the two ends of the linear Exciting Fields of the generator.

All these Tests, I am planning to repeat them, with exactly the same spec's that we have, as Input Voltage, same loads, caps, connections, etc... BUT, with a FULL Exciting System.


Regards


Ufopolitics

Thank you for the further explanation on the switch. I think that is the way to go, a mechanical switch.
Mosfets or Igbts could be pricy, A 1gw30n65L for example is $5.94 Canadian, 
so for 36 that is $213 plus shipping and tax. 

I wondered what you were going to do with those end coils, great.

I wound a "Y" coil, warts and all, should I start a Ron Build Thread or should I post it on here?

Ron

Quote from: ronee on Dec 20, 2023, 11:21 PMThank you for the further explanation on the switch. I think that is the way to go, a mechanical switch.
Mosfets or Igbts could be pricy, A 1gw30n65L for example is $5.94 Canadian,
so for 36 that is $213 plus shipping and tax.

I wondered what you were going to do with those end coils, great.

I wound a "Y" coil, warts and all, should I start a Ron Build Thread or should I post it on here?

Ron

Hello and Good Morning Ron,

Quote from: ronee on Dec 20, 2023, 11:21 PMThank you for the further explanation on the switch.

Yes, my pleasure, I want everything to be very clear, related to explanations on this build.

Quote from: ronee on Dec 20, 2023, 11:21 PMI think that is the way to go, a mechanical switch. Mosfets or Igbts could be pricy, A 1gw30n65L for example is $5.94 Canadian,
so for 36 that is $213 plus shipping and tax.

Yes, besides, I want to keep Figuera's original design related to this rotary switch, even though we never got to look at the original one, that He ordered to be built in Germany... it can be figured out what it may look like...

It is just like restoring an "Antique Car"...say a 1957 T-Bird Convertible (I love that car)...You do not want to put in there a newer Engine, with computerized sensors and state of the art processors etc...just because you will completely kill the Original Value of that vehicle, when it comes to judge it on a Classic Car Expo...

Of course, we can (and we will) go for an "Upgraded-Advanced-Full Solid State Figuera" later on...but as you've said, FET's are expensive, plus I bet we will be blowing a few, before it gets to work properly...

Then I will keep my old buddy, my rotary switch, just like you save under a glass bell, a very well-polished and superb machined parts in brass, of a miniature "Sterling Engine"...

Quote from: ronee on Dec 20, 2023, 11:21 PMI wound a "Y" coil, warts and all, should I start a Ron Build Thread or should I post it on here?

Yes, please, open a New Topic under Builder's Thread at this link: The New Figuera Design Method(s)

Any problems, let me know.

Thanks much!

Regards

Ufopolitics