Baghdad Battery

[Classic]

I don't know why attachment is not loaded, I will try again

[Classic]

I have started new experiments with a partial 3d printed enclosure and much less amount of electrodes. So far I have found some kind of strange behaviour.

So, the setup: 10 series cells consist in 6x6x35 mm (like a square tube), with a common top holding all together. Each cell contain 2 electrodes of copper and magnesium 3-4x50 mm thickness max 0.2 mm. Small stainless steel screws 8x2 mm fixed in the top to connect electrodes in series. Teflon tape (for plumbing) approx 200 mm long is rolled up and fit tide between electrodes to prevent direct contact.
Carcass is printed in cheap PLA, and measure about 200 mm long 8 mm wide and 35 mm hight with 12 mm gap between cells.

Open voltage variable: first measurement was 13.8 V about 15 hours ago, now is 12.2 V ... no measurable current at any time.
With voltage measured ONLY across the output electrodes I can read: 1 led 2.5v 2 leds in series 5.1v 3 leds in series 7.5v brightness of leds decrease when more are added for all of them. no resistors are used.

13.8 v do not burn a single led connected straight to output.

DC voltage stays the same 12.2 V if 80 m long 0.5 mm diameter enamelled copper wire is used between output positive and positive probe of multimeter. Even when series leds are connected through the 80 m long wire I get same voltage reading like the wire no been added.

A 16 V 220 uF electrolytic cap placed across the output reach 12.2 V in less then 30 seconds. Up to 20 UF charge up almost instantly.

Voltage is present constant all time as long as there is at least a drop of water in the same amount providing power.

It can work even wth 3x3x0.2 mm electrodes in the same way with the same output ! But becomes extremely difficult to build such cells in diy manner.

Now I have to stop the printing and reconsider actual design to make it even smaller and improve connections, considering batches of series connected in parallel. Also, tantalum capacitors across each cell and a supercapacitor bank at output.

The aim of this "battery" is to power pancake coils arrangement which I already shared in high voltage and resonance topic, as well a different circuit based on a transistor as single electronic component circuit with bifilar coils.

Also, Nickel 200 bare wire 0.56 mm diameter (or smaller) can be used instead of copper with same results (possibly requires less labour for assembly).

[Classic]

So, expected voltage of 15 V per 10 cell series not been reach due to imperfect size and geometry of electrodes. One method to eliminate this can be use of capacitors across each cell ... tantalum or ceramic caps looks to be the winners ... wet tantalum capacitors might not be the best solution for a cheap build but definitely best for performance. X7 ceramic is the second option at £0.11 or cheaper for 1000 pieces.

Yes, I am speaking about 1000 cells per battery for a great power pack in a decent small size and relative cheap.

I have devised few methods of fabrication for diy manner and also, for automatised factory production and I may retain the right to patent mass production by my method, while everyone is free to patent their own methods should they wish. But, the working principle is non patentable ! Working principle belongs to general human knowledge and anyone can use it for their own benefit in any way.

Also, there is a chance to obtain a resonance in each cell when coupled with capacitor, but this will be left for further achievement following some disclosures in Arie Melis deGeus patents ... of course for an enhanced power output.

[Classic]

So, just to be clear as I have been told that Magnesium react with water even if very slowly at room temperature. Indeed there will be formed MgO and Hydrogen BUT !, once a thin layer of oxide is formed on surface of Magnesium it will prevent further oxidation ! Especially at room temperature and deionised water.

For copper the same apply.

After I have said this, I can name one of the automatised method of fabrication as using thin layers of CuO and MgO on film and layers can be as thin as few nano meters provided the film will enclose and seal few water molecules.

Of course magnetic effect can enhance electric flow generation where diamagnetic metals like copper become paramagnetic when oxidation have take place and affinity with north or south magnetic can be atribute for the oxide of different diamagnetic metals. Also hydrides of metals in presence of water based solutions may shade a great light as seen in one of the patents of Arie Melis deGeus.

Also, different elements can be combined upon method of fabrication, provided that chemical reaction will not take place.

For the moment I will only insist on diy method easy and cheap to build.

[Classic]

Quick update: having 3 sets of 10 cells in series in parallel, despite no measurable current yet it burn the LED if just a single one is connected. And the beauty is, I have emptied the cells and hey have retained just a little humidity at the bottom where is the teflon tape pressed to hold the electrodes apart.

Also cells can be sealed to prevent evaporation of water, but water must be of high purity if we want to preserve electrodes and avoid hydrogen generation.

We can use with similar results iron+magnesium or nickel+magnesium, for less power we can use aluminium+copper. For much powerful output we can use cerium oxide+copper/nickel/gold in same high purity water (preferable pharmaceutical grade).

For less amount spent we can settle for magnesium+copper open air cells with deionised/rain water.

Upon my availability I will make more disclosures about diy methods and/or mass production or more powerful at reduced size setups accompanied by partial videos of such arrangements.

Currently exploring deionised water replacement with propylene glycol (PPG).