LÜLING MAGNET MOTOR BY UFOPOLITICS

[Ufopolitics]

Hello to All,

This is My Builder´s Thread transferred from overunity.com, now on "read mode only" where I exposed the way I see Lüling's Motor Principle, was originally conceived and built, it is my point of view, and am not saying I could not be wrong, anyone can be wrong, and so do I.
However, on my first video of my setup, I demonstrate very clearly, it was a very successful build, it reached 400 plus RPM's while Lüling's reaches 298 RPM's...That tells me right there I am -somehow- on the right track.

And that was on a Plexiglass Model with Two Pairs of 1/2 Inch Neo 52 Grade Permanent Magnets, where ONLY two of those magnets are the one in charge to Spin the Rotor.

I can make a Full Metal Motor, because I have the Tools, the Equipment and the Expertise to do so, with much bigger Magnets, more complex mechanics and Pneumatics Systems.

But, for now, I would like to expand on this same simple model, before moving on a heavier metal setup, in order to share what I have learn so far...

For those that have not seen my Video, here it is:

Thanks very much for your interest in Lüling Motor and on this Thread!!

Regards to All

Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Hello to All,

I would like to clarify that I am NOT claiming to be the First Lüling Follower-Builder that replicated this Motor using Pneumatics...

You Tube user Manfred Klug also built a Lüling Motor, based on Pneumatics, about Four Years ago...below is his #10 Video showing it running:

I believe it is a great build, a nice setup...

However, the reason why -I believe- his motor does not run stronger and faster...is due to his Magnetic arrangement, where there is no Neutralization Alignment.

His Rotor is based on Laminated Steel and no magnets...so it runs based on attraction from Magnets on Stator to a Steel Rotor, plus the moving Steel Arc also made of Steel...which would never, ever be as strong as Magnet-to-Magnet Interactions.

Regards

Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Hello to All,

I want to establish some of my RULES about My Thread below:

1- This Setup is about a FULL ROTARY MAGNET MOTOR just like Lüling Motor is.

So, it means that ANY LINEAR ARRANGEMENT, or anything "NON FULLY ROTARY" posted here, through links, images, etc,etc, would be considered as "NON RELATED" and it would be DELETED, without any given explanation.

2- In My Setup, as in Lüling Motor, (As I see it) DOES NOT REQUIRE ANY ELECTRICAL INPUT to Run, meaning, NO COILS, NO ELECTROMAGNETS, NO SOLENOIDS, No Reed Switches, No Field Transistors, etc, and of course, NO BATTERIES REQUIRED.

So, any posts that start even "suggesting" the use of ANY OF THE ABOVE, or any possibility as to use ELECTRIC POWER, will be DELETED, as NON RELATED.

I know perfectly well, how to use ALL OF THE ABOVE IN MY SETUP, and I know it will work as well, BUT I WILL NOT BE USING ANY AT THIS POINT.

I have build Fully Electric Motors from SCRATCH, and, I mean REAL FULL METAL MOTORS, including DIFFERENT TYPES OF WINDINGS, NEVER SEEN BEFORE...INVENTED BY ME, MYSELF AND I.

And I have proof of ALL am saying and more...My videos are Public on My Youtube Channel, as well as ALL My Previous Threads in ENERGETIC FORUM about these Fields.


Resuming, and asking as a favor...Please, do not make me start deleting posts, just because of REASONS ABOVE, previously WARNED ABOUT.



ABOUT BUILDING THIS SETUP:

I MAKE MY OWN PARTS[/color]...and I do not mean in "wood" or "plastic"...

I am referring to Stainless Steel, Regular Steel, Brass and Aluminum...I build from bushings to levers, to all shafts required for the assembly.
I can MIGWELD, TIGWELD, SOLDER, TORCH (Oxygen-Acetylene) to heat up, bend, cut,  Aluminum, Steel and Brass...
I have my own LATHE to shape almost everything I need from scratch.

I have all kind of AIR TOOLS to cut, press, grind, sand, polish, rivet, etc,etc all I want...

I also have Electrical Tools...

I have learned a long time ago, that it is always MUCH better, if you do not have to "DEPEND" upon ANYBODY ELSE to make your parts...

I also DO ALL MY SETUP FIRST IN 2D CAD, 3D CAD, before I start cutting and grinding parts...IN ORDER TO CHECK RIGHT ANGLES, RIGHT PATTERNS, RIGHT MOVEMENTS.

This BUILD REQUIRES A VERY HIGH PRECISION, PLUS MUST BE VERY, VERY sturdy (FIRMLY BUILT), meaning, NO WOBBLING, NOT UNEVEN, NOT UNBALANCED SPINNING...VERY ACCURATELY BUILT!!

WHY DID I WROTE ALL OF THE ABOVE?

BECAUSE I do not want You to waste your time and your money, if you would not be able to make it ALL by yourself, whether because of lack of the proper tooling, equipment or simply, capability-expertise to make it, without depending upon "Third Parties"...

I THANK ALL OF YOU for reading me and participating if you can and wish to REPLICATE my SETUP.

Next I will be displaying in detail (Graphics, CAD, Images) about NEUTRALIZATION the way I have ACHIEVED IT, related to My Build.

Regards and Thanks again.

Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Hello to All,

A very useful tool that I highly recommend when building my setup, is a Digital Force, Push-Pull Gauge...
I got mine on EBAY, (the cheapest one) for like  $58.00 USD, it is 500 Newtons max capacity, but enough when playing with small 1/2 inch magnets.



First, You will need to know what is the Angular Force that Your Repulse Magnet at your rotor is generating whenever you start Turning OFF Neutralization...then understand that the more you set apart the attraction magnet or "spread the attract gap" (weakening attraction force).

Of course, to do this test right, you must fix the gauge on the stator plate, and barely touching repulse magnet with point attachement and extension bar.

My 52 Neo generates around 17 to 20 Newtons max...

Also this Gauge will be very useful to measure the springs force you would be using in a fully mechanical device...the exert pressure force required to move a specific lever, etc,etc...

Cheers

Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

APPLYING GAUGE TO READ MAX MAGNET FORCE

Here are a couple of pics of a Scene I am working on for a second video animation...it shows pretty clearly how to  apply Digital Gauge to measure your Magnetic Repulse Force.





Of course, you will  have to build your own "gig" or a bracket with a lever (like is shown on image) in order to pull the attract magnet smoothly while reading...
The Gauge must be fixed to plate surface, it comes with built in four nuts on lower body plus four small bolts...

But, believe me, this test will show you exactly what would be your correct attract magnet displacement or gap opening DISTANCE, as the generated force increases on the repulse magnet side.

You will also learn, that even a very small displacement of attract magnet will start generating a force at 180º...

Then you will realize that the regulation of this attract gap would be the acceleration-deceleration of your future magnet motor...


Regards


Ufopolitics