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About My Rotary Switch Construction

Started by Ufopolitics, Jan 06, 2024, 05:59 PM

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Ufopolitics

Hello All,

Since I had to do some cleaning today, plus replace brush-spring on Rotary Switch, while I was testing the  new method on Parallel end coils...I decided to film the whole process in order to explain some details on the build...on this Topic

Hope it is useful to all building a Rotary Switch...


Regards

Ufopolitics
Principles for the Development of a Complete Mind:Study the science of art. Study the art of science.
Develop your senses- especially learn how to see. Realize that everything connects to everything else.
―Leonardo da Vinci

Ufopolitics

Hello to All,

Today I added a Digital Tachometer to my Rotary Switch...

The mounting job came out excellent, but, I am not happy with the Tach processor, is too slow on response...so if you see anyone looking like this one...please, do NOT buy it!!

I am returning the second one I ordered for my next commutator switch...I will leave this one on...and for our purposes is ok, because if for whenever the speed is steady. To write down the Input versus Output, at that running speed.


Regards


Ufopolitics
Principles for the Development of a Complete Mind:Study the science of art. Study the art of science.
Develop your senses- especially learn how to see. Realize that everything connects to everything else.
―Leonardo da Vinci

ggx9

Hello Ufopolitics.
In reference to your inclination to perhaps build a switch running the brush on the inside of a segmented copper cylinder I noticed that a 2" copper sweat cap is available online for around $12 (plus shipping and tax).
It can be cut into the number of segments desired and it has the bend that adds strength and a place to secure it to the plexiglass.
This avoids having to buy a section of large copper pipe.

RichardG

Ufopolitics

Quote from: ggx9 on Feb 08, 2024, 04:17 AMHello Ufopolitics.
In reference to your inclination to perhaps build a switch running the brush on the inside of a segmented copper cylinder I noticed that a 2" copper sweat cap is available online for around $12 (plus shipping and tax).
It can be cut into the number of segments desired and it has the bend that adds strength and a place to secure it to the plexiglass.
This avoids having to buy a section of large copper pipe.

RichardG

Hello ggx9,

Yes, I am going to build a special brush commutator where brush sweeps from inside out...using the advantage of centrifugal forces, to keep them making full contact even at super high speeds.

I ordered back in 2022 a 12 in (1 ft) length, 3 in Diameter, and about 3.0 mm thick, it cost me around 62.99 plus tax...the shipment was free from Ebay Buyer.

The minimum He sells is 1 ft length...

The way to build this type of rotary switch, I will make a specific 3D CAD Animated video, where I will explain how to make it easier.

But, after you are done rectifying its interior on a Lathe with a very fine blade, then cut the ring at the size of your commutator would be, PLUS, leaving extra space for tabs above and below, where the connecting bolts go, plus supporting the structure.

The material I will be using to hold all elements together is Fiberglass, not PVC, Not Plexiglass...these later materials do not hold too much heat.

But the main "tip" to cut this whole ring piece with success, is to FIRST, cut ONLY, ALL Tabs where bolts would be...bent them, in a straight 90 deg angle...and even drill each hole, on center of each tab for all the bolts, plus make all the thread's.

Then make your main Structural supporting around the outside of the non-fully cut, copper ring, in my case, I will lay all fiberglass cloth with resin to form it around.

And, only after Fiberglass has cured completely, then you make the "surgical cuts" on ONLY the copper material, which separates each of the contacts completely, without cutting your fiberglass structure!!

Please note that the height of this copper ring only needs to be around the size of your brush height, the smaller it is, the better, as the interior cuts would be very short.

I recommend doing these cuts by hand, with a very fine hand saw, taking your time to make them as smooth as possible...

Then you need to make another one of these rings, but not cut into segments, but a continuous ring for your Positive contact Slip Ring brush.

Then you will have Two Brushes 180 degrees apart (to counterbalance centrifugal forces), one for commutating, plus a second one, for slip ring continuous contact to positive.

These Two Brushes need to be electrically connected, one with the other, and of course, they work at different height levels, one level for commutating ring, plus the other level for the continuous slip ring.

The rest is just adding your upper and lower caps, which will hold your Small Motor plus Brush assembly on a center shaft.

EDIT1: I am going to make a special fiberglass piece, to support both brushes metal housings, plus connections together, and I will also make this piece, with the shape of a Fan propeller...so, it will also be a fan to cool the commutator elements friction, plus the coils.

Regards

Ufopolitics

Principles for the Development of a Complete Mind:Study the science of art. Study the art of science.
Develop your senses- especially learn how to see. Realize that everything connects to everything else.
―Leonardo da Vinci

Ufopolitics

Hello to All,

Ok, and below is just a CAD Cut View Image, of the New Rotary Switch Assembly...

It just gives You all, an idea of what I'll be building soon, it does not mean it would be "exactly" like that...but that is the main idea.


COMM_RING_ASSY_ROTARY_SWITCH.png


Regards


Ufopolitics
Principles for the Development of a Complete Mind:Study the science of art. Study the art of science.
Develop your senses- especially learn how to see. Realize that everything connects to everything else.
―Leonardo da Vinci


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