FIGUERA'S AETHER MAGNETIC FIELDS LINEAR PUMP, REVIVED

[Art Z.]

Hello,

Based on my research on proper copper grade I found C101 99.99% purity which is oxygen free for better conductivity square bars that are extremely expensive and also found C110 HO2 which has better pricing on this website in Washington About Alcobra Metals - Metal Solutions | Alcobra Metals. It's just $11.00 for 36" long square bars. In US standards it has 99.9% purity and it has good conductivity but 110 grade has poor machining ratings. I wonder if we can use this material for our elements. 

Thanks Alex for the corrections and encouraging words. I will upload some pictures later on.

Best Regards! 

[kampen]

Hello Art Z.,

Thank you for researching the copper grades.

In my opinion, C110 H02 should be perfectly acceptable for these commutator elements.
C101 oxygen-free copper is technically excellent, but I believe it is overkill for this application. Its main advantages are ultra-high purity and oxygen-free performance, which are more important in vacuum, RF, hydrogen-sensitive, or highly specialized electrical applications.
For our mechanical commutator, C110 is already a very good material. It has high copper purity, excellent electrical conductivity, good thermal conductivity, and is commonly used for electrical conductors, bus bars, terminals, and similar applications.
The poor machining rating of C110 is something to keep in mind, but I do not see it as a major obstacle here because our parts are very simple:
Single Element:
6 × 6 × 20 mm
Double Element:
13 × 6 × 20 mm
constructed from 6 mm + 1 mm filler + 6 mm
We are not making complicated precision shapes. 

We are mainly cutting, drilling, tapping, filing/sanding, and doing a light lathe finishing operation on the inner radius.
My recommendation would be:
• Use C110 H02 for the first prototype
• Use sharp drill bits and taps
• Clamp the copper very securely
• Use cutting fluid
• Deburr every air gap carefully
• Make a few extra elements in case any are damaged during drilling or tapping
• Test soldering/brazing on scrap pieces before making the four double elements.

If C110 is available at a good price, I would use it rather than spending much more money on C101.
Looking forward to seeing your coil progress and the commutator build pictures.

Best regards,
Alex

[Ufopolitics]

Hello All,

Hello dear friend Alex,

Ok, so I did some 3D CAD on MAYA...so we have a FULL 3D GRIP of this New Commutator made out of Copper Bars Assembly, plus the PCB Mounting...

So, as you all can see ALL Commutator Copper Bars MUST BE of the SAME LENGTH.

ALSO, please note that the Commutator Mounting PLATES, DO NOT REACH ALL THE WAY TO THE END OF COMMUTATOR BARS.

But it leaves a CLEARANCE where the PCB MOUNTS. (There is a SPECIFIC REASON for this to be this way, BESIDES, we DO NOT want ANY Plastic NEAR THE HOT END OF Commutator Bars).

ON THIS TOP VIEW ABOVE, IS CLEARLY SHOWN THIS PROPERTY OF THE COMMUTATOR MOUNTING PLATES NOT REACHING ALL THE WAY OUT TO COMMUTATOR'S BARS  END.

ABOUT THE MOUNTING BOLTS TO MOUNTING PLATES OF COMMUTATOR'S COPPER BARS:

You all can see here that I am using SINK HEAD BOLTS, in order NOT TO TAKE UPWARD SPACE.

Plus, I also HIGHLY recommend to use for the TIGHTENING NUTS, of ALL these Sink Head Bolts, the so called "AVIATION NUTS" TYPE (these Nuts have a center plastic LOCKING sleeve, which prevents from bolts to loosen up with vibration.

NOW, ONCE WE MOUNT PCB...YOU CAN SEE ALL THE PCB HOLES ARE ALIGNED WITH THE END FEMALE THREAD ON EACH COMMUTATOR BAR.

ON THIS ZOOMED VIEW OF PCB MOUNTING FASTENERS, WE REALIZE NOW, WHY WE NEED A FREE SPACE (FROM THE POM MOUNTING PLATE) TO MOUNT PCB:

• We need to use METAL SLEEVES AS SPACERS (Preferably made out of Copper or Brass)
• ALL SAME SIZE.
• Then we just screw ALL PCB Mounting Bolts
• Into the previously made FEMALE THREAD .
• On each Commutator Bar.

These SPACERS-SLEEVES, RAISE the WHOLE PCB Mounting, to be completely away from Commutator Mounting Bolts.

Finally, above is the Full Perspective-Top View of the New Commutator Design with its PCB Mounted on.

Hope these 3D Graphics serve you to view how this all works.

Regards

Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Hello All again,

One last thing...

We can NOT have the HEIGHT of the Commutator Bars, being the SAME SIZE as the Brushes Height!!

Meaning, IF our Brushes are 6X6 mm on the FRONT FACE...
We can NOT USE 6X6 mm Commutator Bars where Brushes front face are ALSO 6X6 mm!!

Commutator Bars are ALWAYS HIGHER in Size than the Brushes!!

At least 2.0 mm above and 2.0 mm below (as MINIMAL)

Look at ANY Brushed Motor and you will notice this commutator bars and Brushes relationship.

Brushes ALWAYS have some minimal play wthin their housings...that it could be up-down, or sideways, or Both...while they are sweeping the copper bars and change speed.

Regards

Ufopolitics