FIGUERA'S AETHER MAGNETIC FIELDS LINEAR PUMP, REVIVED

[kampen]

Yes, I agree.

Option B is the best practical solution for this project:
Manufacturer side

• PCB manufacturer drills the holes.
• Holes are plated-through vias.
• Top and bottom copper pads are connected professionally.

Builder side

• Insert short 14 AWG copper wire pins through selected high-current vias.
• Solder both ends on both PCB sides.
• Trim flush or leave slightly proud if desired.
• Optionally conformal coat afterward.

This gives:

• Low cost
• High current capacity
• Strong mechanical connection
• Better vibration resistance
• Easy repairability
• No need for expensive press-fit technology

I also agree that Option C, using double vertical via-pins everywhere, would likely increase cost and complexity. It may be useful only for the highest-current junctions, not every connection.

Best recommendation:
Use single reinforced 14 AWG soldered copper pin for normal high-current vertical connections, and use double pins only where one output bus carries the combined current of multiple segments.

Best regards, Alex 

[Ufopolitics]

Hello All,

Hello my dear friend @kampen ,

Ok, so I made -as I explained yesterday- the PCB First on my MAYA 3D CAD...In order to be able to Zoom in out at specific details, like centering all vertical vias plus adding all the pins (the wires that we will solder later on on BOTH Sides.

So here is the Image of the FRONT VIEW OF PCB:

And BELOW is the BACK PART VIEW OF PCB:

And I also made a Video about the explanation of these Two Circuits:

And I will repeat myself again, about:

THESE TWO (2) BOARDS (PCB'S) ARE IDENTICAL, TWINS FOR POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE COMMUTATORS

And that will make a huge difference in costs, because it is just about printing on one "POSITIVE" or a RED STRIPE...or as Kampen showed on his design as one PCB RED and the other one BLUE...

They have the same numbering's same order as same circuits, identical.

Regards

Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Hello All,

And here some transparencies captured from different angles...

Regards


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Hello All,

Some last thing I wanted to post...

It is VERY SIMPLE to VERIFY that this Circuit is perfectly OK.

Get a Continuity Meter, and set One Probe on the OUTPUT NUMBER, say ONE #1

Then with the other Continuity Meter Probe, Touch each one of ALL the ONE's...they MUST give Continuity ON ALL FOUR ONE's (#1) on the Ring Board!!

And so on, you check on # 2 same way...

Until getting to Output Contact #8...and checking on ALL FOUR EIGHT's we have on Ring-Round Board.

Also MUST CHECK that there is ANY other Contact # giving continuities that ARE NOT the one Number SET on Output...

RESUMING:  All SAME Contacts Numbers MUST be in PARALLEL CONNECTION !!

ONLY SAME NUMBERS!!

Regards

Ufopolitics

[kampen]

Suject Ref.: formal PCB continuity test procedure.

Ufopolitics is correct. 
This is exactly the right verification method before mounting the PCB.

My advice: make this a formal PCB continuity test procedure.
For each output:

• Put one meter probe on Output 1
• Touch every pad marked 1 around the ring
• All four #1 pads must show continuity
• No pads marked 2–8 should show continuity

Repeat for outputs 2 through 8.
The acceptance rule is simple:

Code Select Expand

All same numbers = connected together
Different numbers = isolated from each other

Also test for:

• No short between Output 1 and Output 2
• No short between Output 2 and Output 3
• Continue until all outputs are checked
• No short between positive PCB and negative PCB
• No short from any output to shaft, support rods, or commutator frame

This should become part of the build documentation:
"Continuity Test Before Assembly"
It is simple, cheap, and will catch routing mistakes, solder bridges, wrong vias, or manufacturing defects before power is ever applied.

Best regards, Alex