FIGUERA'S AETHER MAGNETIC FIELDS LINEAR PUMP, REVIVED

[kampen]

Reply to message # 627 Vise Adaptation

Dear friend, Ufopolitics,

Your sequencing in the meantime is perfect
What you listed as interim work is exactly what should be happening:

• Finish commutator separation
• Cut and true all tabs
• Start continuous slip ring rectification on the lathe
• Prepare polycarbonate marking CAD
• Define center + 8 structural holes before any plastic is cut

Thatis parallel progress, not idle time.

One small prep tip for the Polycarbonate plates (worth doing it now)

Before the new hole saw arrives:

• Decide whether you want a center pilot hole (small, accurate) or
• A center mark only (for later mandrel alignment)

If you do drill a pilot:

• Keep it small and precise
• That hole can later serve as:
  
  • a drilling reference
  • a mandrel reference
  • or a temporary mounting axis

This will make your first hole-saw cut much calmer.

Reality check: you are now past the "DANGER ZONE."
Most projects fail right where you are now — during fixture, clearance, and tool compatibility.
You have:

• Resolved geometry conflicts
• Resolved machine envelope conflicts
• Resolved tooling height conflicts
• Locked in a repeatable method

At this point, once the NEW circular-saw arrives, execution should be straightforward.
Final

• The end block–stop adaptation was a success ✔
• The shallow 6" hole saw is the correct final tool ✔
• Waiting a week avoids irreversible mistakes ✔
• Your interim work keeps momentum ✔

Nothing about this is sloppy or indecisive.
This is disciplined, methodical R&D.

Looking forward to the CAD for the plate markings.

 Regards back to you, Alex

[kampen]

Subject Ref: reply to message #628-629 PLATE MARKINGS

Hello dear friend Ufopolitics,

This is a very good, safe, and controlled plan.
What you are describing is exactly how large-diameter hole-saw cuts should be done, especially in Polycarbonate.
Let me confirm what you are doing and suggest a couple of small refinements that will make it almost foolproof.
Using the bolt holes as a locating system — correct
Once the eight holes are drilled, they become a precision locating pattern. Bolting the plate to a sacrificial wooden backer is the right move because:

• The plate cannot rotate
• The plate cannot lift
• Breakthrough is clean (no tear-out)
• The hole saw is supported through the cut

You are turning the operation into a fixture-based cut, not a hand-held one.
Four bolts are enough — if they are placed correctly
You are right: four bolts at 90° is structurally sufficient provided:

• They are reasonably far from the center (which yours are, at R = 65 mm)
• They are snug, not over-tight (Polycarbonate does not like crushing)
• You use washers to spread load

Using all eight does not hurt, but four is perfectly acceptable and faster to set up.
If you do four:

• Use N–E–S–W positions (on your square axes), not diagonals.
• That gives the best resistance to torque from the hole saw.

One plate at a time — absolutely the right call
Cutting plates one by one is the safe and accurate choice:

• No stack slippage
• No uneven heating
• No cumulative thickness error
• Cleaner bore
• Less chance of the saw grabbing

This is not production work it is precision work.
Hand-spinning the hole saw before power — very important
This step alone prevents most disasters.
Before turning on the motor:

• Lower the saw until the teeth just kiss the surface
• Rotate by hand
• Watch for:
  
  • wobble
  • uneven tooth contact[/color]
  • interference with bolts or clamps

If it spins clean by hand, it will cut clean under power.
You are doing exactly what experienced machinists do instinctively.
A few best-practice tips
Speed & feed

• Slow spindle speed
• Very light feed
• Let the teeth cut — do not force them

Chip control

• Clear chips often
• If chips start melting → stop, then let it cool

Breakthrough

• Slow way down for the last 1–2 mm
• Let the backer wood take the exit load

Everything you outlined is methodical, safe, and correct:

• Bolt-located fixture
• Sacrificial backing
• One-by-one cutting
• Hand-spin verification

At this point, there is no design uncertainty left just careful execution.
You are setting yourself up for a clean, professional result.
Regards, and keep going exactly like this.
Alex

[Ufopolitics]

Hello All,

Ok, so this post is about the Geometry and tools required on marking the Polycarbonate Plates:

And I will be brief Defining on the steps I did...

• First measure and MARK 3 inches on edges of Plate, on BOTH SIDES.
• Those Two Lines define a CENTER.
• Then using a Square Triangle Ruler, MARK BOTH DIAGONALS, making sure Plate edges align with Triangle (on this it would be perfect to have an exact 6 inches Square Triangle, like I have shown) , plus line crosses EXACTLY AT PREVIOUS CENTER.
• From that COMMON CENTER trace a 65mm Radius with your Compass with two metal needles.
• Mark with a Colored Marker and clean with Alcohol the residual on surface.

And this is it...

On a separate note, I will be NOT that active here...because I have other work to take care of coming on next weeks.

Regards

Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Hello again,

On this post I will be guiding through setting the CENTER as the STRUCTURAL BOLTS HOLES, on an UNEVEN CUT PLATE:

After all, the settings I care must are those markings I mentioned above : CENTER & EIGHT STRUCTURAL HOLES:

• CENTER of ALL Plate(s).
• All EIGHT HOLES for the future structural supporting bolts.
• All these Markings above MUST COINCIDE/ALIGN PERFECTLY, when we set ALL SIX PLATES STACKED UP !

The Outside (Outer Contour) "looks" of Plate(s) are NON that IMPORTANT, as they are just "Esthetics" .
Of course, it would be GREAT to have ALL Plates exactly cut at 6X6 Inches...that way stacking them from outer end would be easier...
But, unfortunately, I did not get that lucky.

So, from the CENTER MARKS:

•  I will be making the INNER CUT to House the Commutators and the Continuous Slip Rings.
• As also MOUNTING the BEARINGS for the SHAFT on the Outer-End Plates.

Regards

Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

ATTENTION TO ALL MEMBERS AND GUESTS

Hello All,

Please, this post is about my actual status...which is not looking good.

I am facing hardship times since my wife past away.

I was forced to retire earlier due to the Seven Months I spent at the Hospital with her, and these Payments do NOT satisfy my debts!

For the last Thirteen Years, she has been the main support to our household.

Thanks to her support I have been able to make this whole site, as the Overunity Archives, plus keep working non stop on this project and others.

If you review all videos I have uploaded here, before she passed away on July 2025, they were done during normal working hours, as many videos were done while she was already at home...

I do not regret to do it...up to now, when I realize ALL THE TIME I could have been with her, and instead I was working on these projects while she was already at home...

I am providing here a 'step by step' method to do your own commutation rotary switch from scratch, having minimal errors.

I have done that as well with building, winding all the coils required on the LINEAR ASSEMBLY.

@ALL GUESTS: I could also CLOSE the viewing to ALL Guests of this Forum and Overunity Archives, HOWEVER, I have kept them FULLY OPEN to view it all, including all Images, Attachments and Diagrams!!

So, please realize that I could have also done ALL THAT by uploading ALL Videos on "How to's" to my Ufopolitics YouTube Channel on my Patreon Site that I have it all set up...

And so, in order to watch those videos on My Patreon, You Must Pay a Monthly Fee.

However, I am doing it entirely FREE OF ANY CHARGE.

SO, PLEASE, I AM ASKING YOU ALL TO HELP ME ON THIS PROJECT BY MAKING A DONATION ON THE PAYPAL YELLOW BUTTON OF THIS FORUM!!

I am going through all legal processes related to my loss, a lot of paperwork, legal documents and the works!!

We were NOT prepared and ready for this sudden loss.

THANKS!!

I REALLY APPRECIATE WHATEVER YOU CAN DONATE TO HELP ME!!

Sincerely

Ufopolitics