FIGUERA'S AETHER MAGNETIC FIELDS LINEAR PUMP, REVIVED

[Ufopolitics]

Hello All,

I already started on the Copper Cylinder cutting & alignment (on borders) and balancing:

I plan to cut out first the Two Commutator Rings together as one piece, mark all segments/angles, tabs space and just cut -and bend- the tabs at both ends only.

Then I will run an interior 'cleaning and rectifying' -for both commutators as one piece- with very fine inner blades (at Lathe) running inside cylinder (future area of commutation where brushes will ride)

I plan to just mark all segmenting cuts for the two commutators as they are one piece, so there will be no error on spacing cuts for both at the same time.

Then cut in half and do each commutator separately, because once I insert the polycarbonate rings and bent the other tabs...the polycarbonate rings can not be removed.

Then drilling and bolting them up (both commutators separately) ...the passing bolts will secure each segment in place...then cut segments all the way through (final step)

And to go over each air gap, smoothing edges, running the V File....and done!

The continuos slip rings are a 'piece of cake'...simple to make, as they would not need as many tabs and bolts - as the 32 segmented commutators- to secure them to polycarbonate rings....

Regards

Ufopolitics

[kampen]

Subject Re: Commutator machining approach

@ Ufopolitics,

Thanks for the detailed explanation and the photo that machining sequence makes a lot of sense.
Cutting both commutator rings as a single piece first is a very good move. 
It guarantees perfect angular alignment of all 32 segments between the two rings and eliminates cumulative spacing error.
Marking and cutting the tabs together before separating them is exactly the right way to keep symmetry and balance under control.
Doing the internal cleaning/rectifying pass while the cylinder is still one piece is also smart, since that defines the true brush-running surface before segmentation.
Splitting the rings only after the polycarbonate carriers are installed avoids any risk of distortion or misalignment later on.
Your final step of full-depth segment cuts, followed by air-gap cleanup and edge dressing, should give you clean commutation with minimal brush wear. 
The slip rings, as you said, are straightforward by comparison and will not add much complexity.

Overall, this is a solid, well-thought-out machining plan. 

Once the rings are finished and you have final axial length and mass then I can lock down the mechanical calculations with much higher confidence.
Looking forward to your next update.

Regards, Alex

[Ufopolitics]

Hello All,

Ok, so here is the CAD for the Real Size 1:1 Scale (If you want to print it at 1:1 you must select on your printing Page Setup to scale 1:1 (otherwise will print it bigger size that I amplified it, to show it here).
I also have uploaded the AUTOCAD NATIVE File (DWG) on Attachments here.

This are the FINAL MEASUREMENTS

It shows the TOP VIEW of JUST the Copper Commutator with all its Tabs (already bent)

Below it shows a CUT OFF -cut is right at Center of Top View- SIDE (ELEVATION) VIEW

It has all measurements included.

The Total Height of each Commutator Ring would be 17 mm from adding 13mm(height of each ring) Plus the Thickness of each Tab or 2.0 mm X 2 (Not shown on Image).

I am doing this CAD JUST to show what a finished commutator should look like, HOWEVER, if we just cut ALL SEGMENTS like this (on bare copper), we will have all segments loose in pieces...a TOTAL NIGHTMARE!

So, I will be showing on following posts the BUILDING STEPS REQUIRED to achieve this project smoothly, with zero accidents or errors.

Regards

Ufopolitics

PD: I have uploaded the Native AUTOCAD File on attachment section

[Ufopolitics]

STEP ONE (1)

This First Building Step is simple...This is the RAW Copper Cylinder and the Length of TWO COMMUTATORS PLUS TABS is exactly 78 mm.

Now, that contains all tabs which also are 13mm long as well as commutator height (13 mm)

I  NEVER, EVER CUT EXACTLY THAT SIZE OF 78 mm!!...I ALWAYS EXTEND A BIT MORE, LIKE 82 mm.

This is done in order to run a final rectification after all steps on 1 are completed.

We later on take it exactly to the 78 mm Length.

At this Stage 1:

• We must make sure that the Interior is smooth out completely (I will do that on Lathe with a very fine inner blade)
• After Interior is smooth, then I will proceed to MARK ONLY all segments DIVISION LINES from END TO END (PARALLEL TO CYLINDER LENGTH) on the INTERIOR WALLS of Cylinder.
• Then I mount it back on Lathe and trim BORDERS to be exactly the 78 mm Length.

After Length is perfect, then I proceed to mark -on Lathe- with a Side Ways Fine Blade (Perpendicular to Cylinder) ALL DIVISIONS as shown on CAD Image on Red and Green:

• Where Red are the BENDING LINES for the Tabs
• Green would be the FINAL CUT that Divides/Separates the Two Commutators (NOT TO BE DONE ON THIS STEP) only to slightly Mark them ALL.
• Each Marked Line (ALL) MUST BE exactly of 13 mm apart. (As shown on Image)

This is the END of Stage 1

Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Hello everyone!

Ok, I made a short video about some 'Tips' when cutting this Cylinder on a Lathe...to make your own Bipolar Driver...
As I am mentioning some details not explained previously when being on starting up post...
Whenever you start cutting the interior...and you stop and watch (you have to do this, stop to watch inside repeatedly) how the blade is cutting...and you see that 'some areas' are not even touched....that means the Cylinder is STILL NOT aligned properly!
And you MUST STOP, and make the required alignment again!

Regards

Ufopolitics