FIGUERA'S AETHER MAGNETIC FIELDS LINEAR PUMP, REVIVED

[kampen]

@ Ufopolitics,

This is a very controlled workflow and methodical, production-grade thinking, just executed with hand tools and patience instead of CNC.
Hand-sawing those outer cuts alone takes discipline most people do not have and the results show it.

Respectfully:
You are doing this the right way, not the fast way and that is why it is working.
Feel free to update with photos once the separation cut is done.

Regards,  Alex 

[Ufopolitics]

@ Ufopolitics,

This is a very controlled workflow and methodical, production-grade thinking, just executed with hand tools and patience instead of CNC.
Hand-sawing those outer cuts alone takes discipline most people do not have and the results show it.

Respectfully:
You are doing this the right way, not the fast way and that is why it is working.
Feel free to update with photos once the separation cut is done.

Regards,  Alex

Hello dear friend,

Thanks, and yes, I am making this build with the least use of sophisticated equipment like a CNC.

So, basically it would be about 80-85% done by handcrafting means.

The goal is that anyone with minimal machining experience could do this build properly based on my instructions.

Yes, a small Lathe is required though, in order to balance the Copper Cylinder, this is the most important stage.

As also a Vertical Drill press (I would use my CNC just to do that) with proper vise to hold pieces together and secured.

A Dremel Tool with basic attachments...just to make the final finishing and small cuts...

The rest is just to draw and make the perfect measurements, a compass, rulers, and other precision measuring tools to draw the right lines.

I am providing all CAD at 1:1 scale, so all it needs is to print it at 100%.

Regards

Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

CONFLICT ON STRUCTURAL-ISOLATION DESIGN

Hello All,

Ok, yesterday I started to print in real size (1:1 Scale) the future  Polycarbonate Rings against the Real Build I have...
And there were conflicts on the 13mm Tabs that I have, versus the 127mm OD Polycarbonate Ring Structures and the running through bolts/nuts that hold them together:

And I do NOT want to CUT SHORTER the TABS!!

And as you can see the holes for Structural Bolts are too close to the 13mm Tabs, and I even extending the OD of the Ring to 127mm (previously it was 120mm)
And I do NOT have room to move structure bolts away any more than shown on image (otherwise they could crack plastic and come apart)

Problem, or error I made before, was to design the Tabs at 7.5mm length, on a previous CAD I have shown here:

And as you can see it looks 'perfect'...right?
The only problem here is that such small Tabs will have 'too close' the passing bolts to the 'Hot Wall' of the Commutator Segments (at around 4.0mm)
This will lead to future problems:

• There is not enough copper material to dissipate the heat from each segment.
• Also, the Passing Bolts having too small insulation material between the commutator -hot- segment wall.(s)
• This could cause that plastic will eventually crack or melt (deform) on vibration plus heat at prolonged operation time.

So...the 'solution' will be posted next.

Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

THE SOLUTION TO PREVIOUS CONFLICT

So, the Six (6) Polycarbonate Plates that I have ordered are 6 X 6 Inches by 1/2in thickness (13mm)

Then a 'Partial Solution' would be to use the plates as they are (6X6 in) and just cut the center hole to insert commutators.

What would look similar to this:

And it looks fine, still it would be a standing upright design (to avoid Gravity Forces to interfere with Centrifugal, already discussed previously), as I would have plenty of room to run ALL JUMPERS WIRES for each Positive-Negative Commutators on the Square Plates Surface.

But, the Second problem I have here (that I had it too as well with the 127mm Ring) is that my small Lathe Chuck Jaws does NOT extend/open that much...
So, the ID -on Plate- in order to fit Commutators OD needs to be around 79mm which is ABOVE (bigger) than the 3 inches ( 76mm) Whole Saw I have...

• 79mm= 3.110 in
• 78mm= 3.07 in

And I was -originally- planning on mounting Plastic Ring on Lathe and cut until it fits TIGHT on commutators...which I considered at that time would be an "easy piece"...

Now, the solution to this, would be to build another "GIG" to Hold Plates (bolted on) and having a CENTER Shaft, that allows me to access the ID on plate to cut it exactly to a tight fitting size on Lathe.
And we are talking about 'mills' difference...However, these reduction -on plates ID- can NOT be made "by hand". with a round file..as it will not gurantee an exact centered commutator mounting.

And I can make all of of this, no problem...it will just "set me back in time" to arrange all this new settings.

Anyways...it still can be done, it will take longer...but finally I will get there.

Regards

Ufopolitics

[greybeardmike]

Most machinist solve this type of problem by removing the chuck on the lathe and replacing it with a faceplate that they can fasten (bolt) their part to, allowing them to center or offset as needed.  So your idea of building a jig that would have a stem that could be put in the lathe chuck and a faceplate to bolt the part to looks like a sound solution.  My thinking of a common item that could be adapted as the jig has not come up with any results.  Something like the slicing blades of food processor but those are typically hollow and would probably not work.  There must be some sort of hub axle that could be adapted for it but nothing is coming to mind.  A wooden one made from a dense hard wood might work.  Maybe someone on here can come up with the right item.  It sounds like time to start looking through the scrap pile.  Do you have any old electric motors around with the hard fans on them or maybe a rotor with the hard aluminum ends for cooling the armature.

greybeardmike