Discussion about the Lockridge Device

[hiwater]

I did a search on eBay for starter generator armature and look what I found.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/286048862433?_skw=starter+generator+armature&itmmeta=01JCKW5SQDV09VVV8DXTS3NTHC&hash=item4299d740e1:g:u6QAAOSwgalm21eF&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA4HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKk7aG7JjOsKj2UZ3%2F2snNzXJi3Hs4GnzKPO7CqnqBbBabVFHR2Ar6t4AfHxR97vaVk%2BMIr1ICu7h5kLztOlnlx8%2BS5DXaWfwOLOi1%2BJMQsozvjIC2VsiNYWZUDdSQMOPZaf6hd3VGMVKWYNZhypJjQMzoSPcFdrfUiXsisyzIWoO0VOm4veUlqAvBwvOIcc3jiv4IpadJOYFfAZrdeeBpyfF09avKiiztHhFggxgtmaWC9SKkjiQo29glkTFetFoctxiPvxPFIPHHZhXvrWnnCw%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-abl_zkZA

Look  carefully at the commutator.

Carroll

These armatures were in a lot of cub cadet ant some other riding lawn mowers. Two commutator bars made one wide one . Instead of 28 comm bars , there were 14 bars. With wide brushes. They motorise a lot slower and also less voltage because of the speed unless it being driven like it was intended. More amperage to run also.
The reason I tried them was to put 2 brushes on the one wide segment. Didnt work. because when the feild collapases it collapses back in to the other windings of the armature. The path of least resistance. 

[citfta]

@ hiwater,

As I pointed out in the drawing I marked up I think every commutator bar is being used.  But they would still have a tendency to want to arc if the brushes were narrow like in the Bedini video.  However if you recall they also had a pretty large home made capacitor in the circuit.  Maybe it was used to capture the inductive kickback and then release it again to help keep the motor part going.  We also don't know how the trifilar inductor was connected into the circuit.  Lots of things to think about.

Carroll

[Ufopolitics]

MY CONCEPT OF DUAL WINDINGS FOR ARMATURE OF LOCKRIDGE DEVICE

Hello All,

I have been working (as "rotating") this idea in my mind since I saw the "Single Alternated Thick Wires" attaching on commutator bars on Bedini's video...then started a search that Citfta also help me on that...and we both came up with the same conclusion...That these type of windings differs completely of the way that typical Brushed Motors and DC Generators are made now based on Lap and Wave Windings...

At the same token, I did not want to add a second commutator to the Machine, even though it is a much cleaner way to do it...but the Lockridge Device did not have dual commutators, plus this could complicate its building a lot. So, to keep within the same structure as Lockridge, this is what I have designed:

LOCKRIDGE ARMATURE CONFIGURATION

Ok, the Commutator has 28 bars and the Armature Steel Core have 14 Teeth.

MY DESIGN

This Design is based on TWO Winding Systems:

1- Winding #1 is a Typical Lap Winding, like in any Brushed Motor, it must be wound with fine wire like 21, 22, or 23 gauge.
This Winding will have a Total of SEVEN OVERLAPPED COILS
A typical Lap Winding is a CLOSED and in SERIES, OVERLAPPED CONFIGURATION.
However, only difference here is that I am connecting overlapped coils in an "ALTERNATED FASHION", meaning One Connection, then jump one commutator segment blank, then attach on third segment and keep going...

ONLY AFTER THIS FULL WINDING# 1 IS FINISHED, THEN THE SECOND WINDING SYSTEM WILL START!!

2-Winding# 2 would be done with a THICKER WIRE, like 18 or 16 gauge, and it will have also a Total of SEVEN COILS.

HOWEVER, these Seven Coils WILL NOT BE IN SERIES, AND NOT FOLLOWING THE 1, 2, 3 ORDERLY COMMUTATOR BARS AS METHOD# 1 IS DONE!!

This Method of Winding# 2 is based on INDEPENDENT COILS, NOT INTERCONNECTED BETWEEN THEM.
As EACH ONE of these independent Coil TERMINALS will be attached at 180º Commutator Bars.
So, First you start Coil number 1 winding, attached to an empty commutator bar, MARK IT!!, then when finished, take wire exactly to opposite commutator bar at 180º apart.
Then will follow Coil 2, and you start NOT at the next bar, (which is already taken by Motor windings) but jumping following bar from your "start point" of Coil 1, as you will end exactly at 180º next to where your Coil 1 ENDED, BUT jumping one commutator segment!!
And so on, until you complete all seven coils.

Concluding: We have Two different windings here,

1- First Winding with finer wire gauge, will be used for Motor, and it will consume lower amps because is done with finer wire, and since it is wound in series, the BEMF will control the currents. And Motor will run smoothly.
Now, the Motor Brushes are around same positioning that I have shown before, as these two brushes are set at around 103º (102.87º by CAD) and I will show graphics below.

2- Second Winding with coarser wire and independent coils will be dedicated for the Generator side, as Brushes are set EXACTLY at 180º.

Then we have:

1- Seven coils for Motor in series with finer wire.

2- Seven Coils Independent from each other's and coarser wire.

Both set-connected to Commutator at Alternated Bars.

Now the Graphics:

On Figure above, I have set ALL Motor Coils in RED, comprehending FIVE Teeth or FOUR Slots for each coil.
The GREEN Lines are the Generator Coils, also having the same extension of Five Teeth.

On above image I have just added the Commutator on top...and I have marked with a Red Dot all Motor Coils connections. As all Green Dots for Generator connections.
Of course, at the time to wind this Machine for real, you MUST MARK all the "Starts and Ends" for every wound coil, as also mark terminals...and use sequence numbers.
In my experience, I recommend FIRST to make ALL the Motor windings...then take motor for a "spin" real test on housing...
Then do ALL Generating Coils, also following an order, start and end...
I have been thinking FIRST to make ALL Generator Coils OPPOSITE WOUND to the way ALL Motor´s Coils are wound...THEN TEST IT.

As this way, Generator may "assist" Motor Function when running and loaded...BUT I do NOT KNOW YET!!...AS BOTH Generator windings must be tested and measured under load to know which one is best!!!

And finally, above is the same CAD Image but with Motor and Generator Brushes added.

Now Motor, -like I wrote above- are set at around 103º Angle, But we can play with this Angle when testing Motor by itself, after finished with its windings to obtain the best performance.

HOWEVER, Generator Angle MUST BE SET EXACTLY at 180º...In order that Generator Brushes makes full contact with each Independent Coil for optimal collection of induced currents.

This Design allows that a coarser wire used for Generator, NOT TO interfere with Resistance from Finer wire windings used for Motoring, since they are on SEPARATE Circuits.

And since Motor Brushes are not set at 180º, but roughly at 100º, they will NEVER MEET IN FULL (Two Terminals) of ANY Generator Coils which are set at 180º.

And like I have written on previous posts...the Other Side of Motor Angle (around 260º) on Armature will have the most of resistance then lesser influence on Induction generated by the Generator Coils...

Now, take your time to analyze and digest all this info...

Regards

Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Hello All,

After analyzing in detail my previous design, where Brushes for Motor were at 103º and Generator at 180º...I came to the conclusion that Motor will not be strong enough...while I was giving Generator a "too wide" angle, not needed, as all this angle "bolts down to" is to collect in an accurate way, the Energy generated by all the seven isolated coils, spinning 360º.

So, here is so far -I believe so- a much better design:

Ok, on Fig above, I have Motor spinning CW as shown by red arc and arrow and the "R"...however, this could be easily reversed by just switching the stators magnetic polarities (terminals electrical input).
On Armature you can see both Bisectors (Red and Blue Arrows) set exactly at 90 degrees from the 180 motor brushes settings.
The Armature Coils distribution is exactly the same as on my prior drawings.
Basically, the Stators have the same Magnetic configuration -as previously shown-, except, I am using all stators of equal size (not smaller ones here) this way we will have more balanced fields.

As, yes, I agree that because we have Two Norths and Two Souths adjacently set or "side by side", we will also need the vertical slots on the outer housing, dividing in between equal poles. This will allow a better magnetic concentration between both N-S.

This configuration is equal as having Two big Norths as two big South Poles...or simply stated, a Two Pole Machine.

BUT, related to Armature configuration, here Motor Brushes are exactly at 180º.

While Generator Brushes are set at 90º (more or less...Idk why on this CAD is not giving me a perfect 90º, maybe is my error...would see in reality) just for Collection from brushes at commutator.

Point is that on this design, Motor will run very smoothly and strong, as is very "symmetric"

All Coils are the same way as I previously have shown...except that now we will take all independent generator coils terminals at +/- 90 degrees.

Still both circuits will not be interconnected, EXCEPT, when Motor brush touches two segments on commutator...then the BEMF would be discharged into generating coils...at least that is the way I see it for now...

Generator Brushes DO have to be trimmed to size of one commutator element for more accurate collection. However, NOT SO with Motor Brushes...they can be 1 1/2 or 2 segment width, or as they come OEM.

Regards to all

Ufopolitics

[Classic]

I have another question: if we have an incomplete device which we know was working in selfsustainig mode but we are unable to find the missing parts in order to make it working again, what is the point to make a NEW design which we think will work in the same way as the original one while we are unable to explain how it work in the first place ?

I think this is a very common approach seen almost everywhere.

I do not consider myself better then any inventor when I try to replicate something and I do not try to improve the original design unless I know how is working and I can prove with a working model also being able to explain the difference between my design and original design. But, if my design do not work I can't blame the inventor so, I need to stick with whatever I have been given.

I am not afraid to be stupid and ask silly questions acknowledging my limitations or lack of understanding. If anyone wants to call me stupid that's it ... I prefer this way rather then pretend to be smart and unable to replicate something which might be very easy or extremely difficult for me or third party.